{"id":658,"date":"2026-05-13T10:30:11","date_gmt":"2026-05-13T10:30:11","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/california-relocation-journal.com\/?p=658"},"modified":"2026-05-13T10:30:11","modified_gmt":"2026-05-13T10:30:11","slug":"how-a-fast-food-taco-showed-us-who-steve-hilton-really-is","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/california-relocation-journal.com\/?p=658","title":{"rendered":"How a fast food taco showed us who Steve Hilton really is"},"content":{"rendered":"
\n

Out in the high desert city of Barstow stand three Del Tacos that bill themselves as better than their corporate cousins.<\/p>\n

Read more L.A. quietly fires its first chief heat officer<\/a><\/p>\n

They\u2019re the last ones owned and operated by Ed Hackbarth, the founder of the Mexican fast food chain. Two of them feature the word \u201cOriginal\u201d under their marquees, even though that\u2019s historically inaccurate \u2014 Hackbarth opened the first Del Taco in the nearby town of Yermo in 1964.<\/p>\n

That hasn\u2019t stopped thousands of devotees \u2014 myself included \u2014 from trekking to these Cal-Mex shrines to buy memorabilia, gawk at historical photos and gorge on hard shell tacos, burritos and bun tacos that they insist are tastier than the ones at regular Del Tacos.<\/p>\n

Among those visitors was Republican gubernatorial candidate Steve Hilton.<\/p>\n

He stopped by the Original Del Taco off 1st Avenue on Saturday after a town hall with lieutenant governor candidate and Barstow native Gloria Romero. His campaign posted a short video on social media of him standing outside the spot \u2014 the oldest operating Del Taco \u2014 while holding something that looked like a melted Frisbee.<\/p>\n

It was what the place calls a Barstow Taco: ground beef, a few strips of lettuce, a blizzard of bright yellow cheese and a thick red tomato slice on top, all inside a hard taco shell.<\/p>\n

Hilton gleefully wielded the crunchy mass with one hand as he pointed to the Original Del Taco sign with the other. <\/p>\n

\u201cMy Barstow street taco, I\u2019m going to enjoy,\u201d he concluded in an accent from his native England, while giving a thumbs-up. \u201cSee you soon.\u201d<\/p>\n

He didn\u2019t take a bite.<\/p>\n

The social media blowback exploded like a digital Montezuma\u2019s revenge. Haters ridiculed Hilton for visiting a Mexican restaurant in what seemed like an attempt to attract Latino voters \u2014 if he was going to do that, why on Earth pick a multimillion-dollar empire founded by a gringo? Others noted that \u201cstreet tacos\u201d are made with corn tortillas and bought from a food truck or street stall. As the author of a book about the history of Mexican food in the United States, I pointed out that this Del Taco isn\u2019t actually the original, despite what the marquee says.<\/p>\n

A humble man would have immediately owned up to his mistakes. Hilton is not a humble man.<\/p>\n

To someone who pointed out that \u201cBarstow street taco\u201d is a misnomer, Hilton shot back, \u201cIt\u2019s what they call it!\u201d To someone who accused him of supporting bland corporations instead of mom-and-pop shops, Hilton responded that he went there because Romero once worked there.<\/p>\n

\u201cNot everything in life has to be turned into a political argument!!\u201d he whined.<\/p>\n

Hilton and his followers are treating Del Taco-gate as much ado about nada <\/i>\u2014 and yet it tells voters everything they need to know about the man.<\/p>\n

Endorsed by President Trump, he has consistently topped the polls this year, mainly because the many Democratic candidates have split the vote. Hilton has outperformed his main Republican rival, Riverside County Sheriff Chad Bianco, by promoting a message of positivity with weak-salsa slogans like \u201cMake California Golden Again\u201d and \u201cCalifordable.\u201d<\/p>\n

During debates, the former Fox News host has relied on his dry wit and posh tone to make his answers sound stronger than they are. He has especially focused on selling himself to Latinos. Months before announcing his run, we sat down at my wife\u2019s restaurant in Santa Ana as he tried to pick my brain about this crucial swing vote, asking questions I kept telling him I had already answered in my columna<\/i>.<\/p>\n

Read more As questions of temperament persist, Katie Porter tries to regain edge in governor\u2019s race<\/a><\/p>\n

Hilton is no pendejo<\/i>. But I have to wonder about his judgment after that Del Taco video.<\/p>\n

I have no problem with Hilton campaigning at a Mexican restaurant \u2014 it\u2019s a political trope practiced by candidates of all persuasions. It\u2019s unfair to expect a British immigrant who\u2019s been in California only since 2012 to be fully versed in taco culture, as essential to the state as it is. And people shouldn\u2019t bash him for highlighting a California culinary institution that\u2019s one of the better legacy fast food chains out there, even though the Barstow Taco is, well, whatever. (Del Taco\u2019s half-pound bean and cheese burrito, on the other hand, is as silky as a Luther Vandross slow jam.)<\/p>\n

A proper hard shell taco is a beautiful thing. Just head out to San Bernardino\u2019s Mitla Cafe, where Hackbarth\u2019s former boss, Glen Bell, learned to make the tacos that turned the two of them into millionaires. But bragging about enjoying a hard shell taco nowadays is like showing up to a street takeover in a horse buggy.<\/p>\n

As relevant to modern-day California as tamale pie, hard shell tacos are a reflection of Hilton\u2019s pitch to voters: Instead of offering a bold vision for the future, he offers a return to a past that will never happen again and that wasn\u2019t as great as people make it out to be.<\/p>\n

I\u2019ve tried to be as open as possible to Hilton\u2019s campaign. California could benefit from a governor who didn\u2019t emerge from the Sacramento swamp. It might even benefit from a Republican, as in the 2000s when Arnold Schwarzenegger forced Democrats to fight instead of fester.<\/p>\n

But Hilton disappoints again and again. He launched his campaign in Huntington Beach, enamored of politicians there who seek to silo their city from the rest of California and humiliate liberals at every opportunity. His embrace of Trump\u2018s endorsement and refusal to admit that Joe Biden legitimately won the 2020 presidential election expose him as a toady. Hilton\u2019s ongoing boast that he is the candidate for legal immigrants disqualifies my father, who originally came to this country without papers yet has contributed more to the California experiment (and is now a U.S. citizen) than Hilton ever has.<\/p>\n

I\u2019ll even be gracious and excuse Hilton for wrongly calling the Del Taco he visited the original one \u2014 the background is admittedly confusing. But his Barstow street taco flub is a stand-in for his campaign, which will flop come November if he doesn\u2019t get his Mexican meals straight. <\/p>\n

Hilton told me over the phone that it was his first time eating at a Del Taco. He didn\u2019t stop by \u201cfor the food, frankly,\u201d but rather for its meaning to Romero and to California entrepreneurship.<\/p>\n

\u201cThe idea of going to the first location of a business that ends up going big is actually pretty cool,\u201d the former restaurateur said, noting that he had shot a video at the San Bernardino location of the first McDonald\u2019s, which is now a museum.<\/p>\n

He didn\u2019t get defensive when I told him the Del Taco wasn\u2019t the first one and that what he ordered wasn\u2019t actually a street taco \u2014 \u201cI would say I\u2019m learning, and I love learning and I love food, and exploring places and community through food, and I really would love to learn more, for sure.\u201d<\/p>\n

Hilton said he does enjoy \u201creal\u201d tacos but couldn\u2019t name any places he favored. He asked for recommendations. I suggested we go get some tacos with my dad, and he immediately agreed.<\/p>\n

\u201cSo you can explain to him how you\u2019re the candidate of legal<\/i> immigrants,\u201d I added. \u201cMy dad came to this country in the trunk of a Chevy.\u201d<\/p>\n

Read more Republicans feud, and fume, in the battle for a Southern California congressional district<\/a><\/p>\n

Hilton stayed silent for a second. \u201cOK, let\u2019s have that conversation,\u201d he said.<\/p>\n

Dear reader: Where should we eat?<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

The social media blowback exploded like a digital Montezuma\u2019s revenge. Some noted that \u201cstreet tacos\u201d are made with corn tortillas and bought from a food truck or street stall.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":657,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-658","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-politics"],"yoast_head":"\nHow a fast food taco showed us who Steve Hilton really is - California Relocation Journal<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/california-relocation-journal.com\/?p=658\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"How a fast food taco showed us who Steve Hilton really is - California Relocation Journal\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"The social media blowback exploded like a digital Montezuma\u2019s revenge. 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